I’ve seen many people ask about Omega Speedmaster sizes. Usually in terms of the “will it fit” conundrum.
Technically, that’s not true.
Let’s have a close look at the dimensions of various Speedmaster models.
This article was originally published on February 23, 2018. It was updated and newly published on July 24, 2022.
What if I told you, that 42 mm isn’t necessarily 42 mm in terms of fit?
You’d probably question that. “But the manufacturer said…”
Forget what the manufacturer said. The diameter doesn’t always determine how it’ll fit.
The fit is determined by how the watch spans from one side of the wrist to the other, where the lug-to-lug size is what matters.
For example, a 43 mm watch with hidden lugs, or a “lugless” design with the lugs being recesses in the main bloc of the case will obviously wear smaller than a 39-40 mm with a lug-to-lug distance of 48-50 mm.
Or smaller than a Longines Legend Diver, where the lug-to-lug distance is – with the diameter of 42 mm not even suggesting that – a whopping 56 mm. That’s the same as in the 46 mm IWC Big Pilot’s Watch, and a hair short of the 47 mm Panerai reissues.
So, what is it like with the Omega Speedmasters?
In case of the Speedmasters, the diameter is not the thing to be concerned about, because Omega provides the diameter including the crown and pusher guards. That doesn’t have any influence on the lug-to-lug distance.
The bezel diameter is still 39.7 mm, just as it was in all Speedmasters since the 2915-3.
The first Speedmasters (CK 2915), ref. 2915-1 and 2915-2 had a diameter of 38 mm. With the 2915-3, this was increased due to the use of a new bezel type, one with an insert as we know it today, instead of the single-piece engraved bezel.
Lug-to-lug, the Pro measures 48 mm. Some people will say “it’s too big, I’ll get the smaller FOiS.”
The fun part is, that the FOiS won’t cause the watch to have the tips of the lugs further from the edge of the wrist.
That’s because the straight lug cases, both vintage, and modern ones, have the same lug-to-lug distance of 48 mm.
Oddly enough, the apparently smaller FOiS might seem heavier – due to the lack of crown guards and a sapphire crystal (obviously, heavier than hesalite).
The center of gravity sits slightly higher in the FOiS.
“So, which is bigger?”
In terms of the area occupied, the Pro. The wide lugs and the crown guard certainly make it look bulkier than it really is.
In terms of concerns about lug overhang, neither. They’re the same.
“What about the contemporary cal.9300 Speedmasters?”
Oh, that’s funny, because in this case, the diameters matter even less.
44.25 mm will likely appall some, but the lug-to-lug is…50 mm. Still less than a 42 mm Longines Legend Diver with its 56 mm though.
“Does it mean it’ll be comfortable, then?”
Not necessarily. They have a high-dome crystal in the case back, making them top-heavy on smaller wrists.
Not to mention that the bulk of the case flies high above the wrist itself.
“But what if I get the Co-Axial cal. 9300 reinterpretation of the 2915?”
That won’t serve you any better than the 44.25 mm ones.
No, it might not have the crown guards, but the lug-to-lug is still about 50 mm, and it still has that bulky crystal in the back.
And again, the weight distribution kicks in.
“But there has to be something that’s not top-heavy!”
There is. The Speedmaster “Racing”, first introduced at Baselworld 2017. Omega trimmed the high-dome case back crystal.
Still, if the lug-to-lug you’re more comfortable with would be 48 mm, go for the Pro.
“But I don’t like manually wound movements, I prefer automatic”
That’s fine. Get a Speedmaster Reduced, if you’re OK with a modular automatic.
“But it’s too small!”
The diameter of the Speedmaster Reduced without the crown and pushers is 38 mm and the lug to lug is 45 mm. If you think that’s too small, you’ll have to settle for a Speedy with a manual movement.
“I still don’t know if it’ll fit and which one I prefer”
Then go and try some of them on.
Seriously. It’s best to take a walk, think, try them on, and not rely on the individual experiences of others.
It feels different for everyone because every wrist is different. Just like with shoes. Two people might have the same shoe size, but that doesn’t mean that the same shoe will fit them identically.