There are 2 situations where the term over-winding might be used:
1. Over-wind a watch so you force and break the watch (most likely the mainspring)
2. The watch is fully wound but it doesn’t run. It’s impossible to wind it any further so it must be over-wound.
1. Break a watch by winding it too far
The mainspring in a manual wound watch is secured on both ends. One end is secured to the barrel arbor and the other end is secured to the barrel. The mainspring has a hook or an extensions spring, that locks in a groove in the barrel wall. This hook or extension spring is also called the bridle.
When you wind a manual watch you’ll slowly start to feel the mainspring building up resistance. It’s best to slow down when you start to feel resistance and gently continue to wind until you can’t wind it any further.
Some hand wound watches do have some sort of protection against over-winding.
Rolex, for example, uses a system in some of their watches that uses 3 bigger notches inside the barrel wall. The spring clings to one of those notches until the pressure gets too high. Then it will simply “jump” to the next notch and so on.
I received this watch to take a look at because it sometimes stopped without any obvious reason.
This is a watch that is designed to look older than it actually is. The appearance of an enamel dial ( in this case, it’s painted metal ), the red logo and the red 12 marker are design elements from the 20s and 30s “trench watches”.
This is a 1970s watch with a Russian Zaria 2009B movement. A hand winder with 21 jewels. It’s quite small ( 8.75 Ligne) for a newer movement.
After inspection, I noticed that the movement was dirty and that the bearing jewels had run dry.
Time for a good cleaning and fresh lubrication.
I also polished the crystal while the parts were being cleaned in the machine.
A good choice of strap can really enhance the looks of a watch. All the same, a badly matched one can make it look odd. How to avoid the latter? That’s the question I’ll attempt to answer by providing a set of three simple guidelines for matching the colour and style of the strap to the watch.
- Match the colour with the dial
- Match the grain with the watch
- Avoid extreme combinations
On the bench, a nice Titus watch with a stainless steel case. This would be called a boys watch nowadays with a diameter of 30 mm without the (original signed) crown.
For some reason, this Swiss brand is one of the most redialed brands out there. So, watch out if you’re looking for one on eBay, for example. This is an article on how to avoid a redial.
The dial looks to be two-tone with the markers in a separate circle.
The movement is a Felsa 465, hand winder with 17 jewels. It didn’t run at all when I received it.
Because of the fixed stud holder and the characteristic red tip on the second hand, I’d date this watch to the early 1950s.
Spending a lot of time in the forums, I see a lot of people ask the question “what model is it?” in reference to their watch.
Reactions to the answer “it doesn’t have one” tend to vary. Some ask “what does it mean?” to which there is but one answer: it means just that. It doesn’t have one.
It generally wasn’t popular until the 1960s to really give a name to a watch, or a model line (collection). Among Swiss brands, Rolex did give names to a lot of watches… but still, most of their watches are known by their reference numbers rather than names (that period, when reference numbers were 5 digits long – tops).
American brands are a different story. Find me a pre-1970 Bulova or Hamilton wristwatch, which doesn’t have a name. Banker, Clipper, President, Senator, and so on…