As far as watch complications go, a lot of them are reminders of earlier times. They were seen as novelties at the time but they’ve since become obsolete. Some of them are even completely pointless (I’m looking at you, moon phase).
Watchmakers still use them because they’ve become part of the design.
The GMT complication, however, is still very useful to display two separate time zones at once.
Not only does this come in handy for people who travel a lot, it also looks badass.
So, what is a GMT watch and how do you use it?
Cortebert is probably best known for their railroad watches. They supplied both the Turkish as the Italian railways, though they used the Perseo brand name for the Italian railroads.
T.C.D. Demiryolları is the Turkish State Railways (Türkiye Cumhuriyeti Devlet Demiryolları), so this watch was for the Turkish railroad system.
It’s powered by the Cortebert 739, which is a rebranded Unitas 6325 movement, a so-called “Wehrmachtswerk”.
The movement with the stem release button, mobile stud holder, and KIF shock protection date this watch to the late 1960s.
This Cortebert did run but the amplitude was very low and the watch gained a lot of time. The hands also seemed to be misaligned and you couldn’t feel any resistance while setting the hands.
In 1957, Omega – catering to the growing demand for tool watches – released a “trinity” of what was intended as daily beater tool watches and back then, that’s exactly what it was.
The Seamaster 300, reference CK 2913, intended for divers.
The Railmaster, CK 2914, intended for engineers working in environments, where the exposure to strong magnetic fields would mess up a watch without proper shielding.
And the Speedmaster, reference CK 2915, initially a part of the Seamaster collection, intended as a watch for…well, just about everyone who would need a rugged chronograph on a daily basis, but – in the first place – for racing drivers.
This time, a service of a lovely DuBois 1875 dress watch. The case is chrome-plated but still in good condition with a diameter of 33 mm without the crown.
Lovely two-tone dial with Roman numerals and the original hands with some patina.
According to Mikrolisk, DuBois 1785 was founded in 1952 in Le Locle, Switzerland.
The movement is the FEF 190 with Incabloc shock protection and 15 jewels.
The watch had a very low amplitude and it was possible to wind it forever, which points to issues with the mainspring.
This is an interview with Paul Altieri.
Paul is the founder and owner of Bob’s Watches, the world’s first and only pre-owned online marketplace for used Rolex watches.
He’s one of the leading Rolex experts in the world, from vintage to modern, and a passionate watch collector himself.