You see an interesting vintage Omega watch. Perhaps on eBay or another auction site or even at a yard sale.
It looks great. The price is right. But how do you know it’s genuine and not some knockoff?
There’s a lot of info about “detecting fakes,” but not all of it is good, so be careful. Some websites are very good at ranking high on Google and getting social shares, but they’re neither experienced watch collectors nor high-end dealers. So, don’t put too much trust in those fancy infographics.
In this article, I’ll show you exactly how to tell if your Omega watch is real.
This article was originally published on October 19, 2016. It was updated and newly posted on July 24, 2022.
Dial and hands
First, look closely at the dial and hands.
Omega is a reputable brand, and it had standards to live up to. The lacquer, the font, the text/printing, minute track, etc. should all be of consistently high quality. The alignment should be perfect, and there should be no misspellings of any kind. That includes the case and the case back as well.
The lume on the dial and in the hands (if any) should match. It’s possible that exposure to light and humidity slightly changed the color of the hands.
Also, keep in mind that lume will discolor over time. A watch that’s 40, 50 years old or even older will show some minor signs of old age at least, and that’s fine. It’s suspicious if the lume in the hands or on the dial is still incredibly bright. It doesn’t immediately mean there’s something wrong, but you should at least investigate further.
Even if they did re-lume the dial or hands, it doesn’t make it a fake piece. It does mean, however, that it’s not 100% original anymore. You can read more about redials and how to detect them here.
The hands should be the correct type of hands that Omega would have used.
Below is a chart of Omega hands from 1954. More on the correct type of hands later.
Reference number/case number
Omega uses these numbers to distinguish between models and types. Omega stamped these numbers on the inside of the case back, except for the Officer, which was made for the Swedish market. You can use it to research the watch in question to compare the dial and the hands with the one you’re looking at.
Several books use these codes to list watches, but the most common resource is the Omega Vintage Database. Not all entries have pictures, but the database has lots of images to compare dials and hands. Keep in mind that usually, it only shows one version, while many references came in a variety of dial/hands combinations. It also mentions what movements Omega used and what the production timeframe or the year of introduction was.
Be aware that the database isn’t always 100% accurate, and it doesn’t include all reference numbers. However, it’s an excellent resource and should be the starting point of a search for a vintage Omega watch.
The Omega Vintage Database sometimes uses an extra 0 after the decimal point. For example, the Vintage Omega Database lists the 136.041 as 136.0041.
Caliber
If possible, try to determine what movement the watch has. Some models only used specific movements, and movements were only used for a certain amount of time.
The Vintage Omega Database lists the movement or movements used for a particular reference number as well. When the caliber matches the one that the database has registered, you can check another item off your list.
You can often find the caliber designation on the movement itself. If it’s not clear, you can always try to find the movement in Ranfft or Caliber Corner.
Serial number
All Omega movements have a serial number. On most movements, you can see it on the barrel bridge or train wheel bridge. Pocket watches from before 1910 had the serial number on the dial side of the baseplate.
You can use the serial number to determine (with an accuracy of 1-2 years) when a movement was made. This should match the period in which Omega produced a specific model.
There may be a small gap in the years between the movement and the watch. Sometimes the movement had been in stock somewhere for a while before being fitted into a watch. However, that shouldn’t be more than 1 or 2 years.
Some handy charts that you can use to date your movement are by Omega-Fanatic and Chronomaddox.
Crown and crystal
Omega started to sign all the crowns and crystals around 1950. Some say it’s from 1945 onward, and others say it’s sometime between 1947 and 1950.
There are a few Milspec Omegas that were produced after 1950 but still didn’t have a signed crystal and crown.
In short, if you have a civilian vintage Omega timepiece that was produced after 1950, the crown and crystal should be signed.
However, the presence of a signed crown or crystal is no definite proof in spotting a fake Omega.
There are dozens of different types of original Omega case parts. Theoretically, someone could fit a signed Omega crown to a watch that’s supposed to have a different one. It’s an original crown, but the watch is not identical to how Omega produced it. This is common for 1950s Seamaster automatics. Most had the “clover” crown, but many no longer do.
Perhaps the stem or the crown (or both) had to be replaced, and they couldn’t be bothered to use the correct parts. The watch might be entirely original, but it has a generic crown or an original crown of the wrong type.
That would be a little more difficult with a crystal because a crystal needs to be the exact size to fit correctly.
In other words, you should examine the crown and crystal, but it’s not compelling proof one way or another. If it does match with the additional info you’ve collected so far, it’s another check mark on the list.
Final tips
If you checked all the items above and you’re still not sure, you could always ask for help on one of the forums. Members are usually very knowledgeable about how to spot a fake Omega and are willing to help.
Remember that prices way below market value are suspicious. There are still people who have no clue what they have, but in the age of smartphones and Google, they’re getting rarer every day. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
Whenever you’re looking to buy on the internet, you need to buy the seller first and then the timepiece. If the description, pictures, or his/her reputation raises your eyebrows, skip that one. Sometimes it just doesn’t feel right, and it’s a good idea to trust your gut in these moments. There will be plenty more along the way.
Don’t let all these “rules” and warnings discourage you. Vintage watches are fantastic, and Omega is a fascinating brand with many exciting models. Unfortunately, that means that Omega is one of the most faked and frankenized watch brands, so be careful and use common sense.
Do you have some tips on how to spot a fake Omega? Let me know in the comments below.
Hi,I have an Omega watch,recently purchased from a jeweller which has a small logo on the bottom half of the dial.The motif consists of a yacht sail with the words Dubai Creek printed below.Could this be a limited offer produced for some special boating event in Dubai.?
Hello Melvin, thank you for your tips. I have my father’s I believe 1962 Omega Seamaster Chronograph. However the crown is not signed and the back looks different than any other Seamaster of that vintage I seen on line. It appears to be a snap on back rather than a screw on back. It says Seamaster across the top and Waterproof (LOL) on the bottom. Did Omega ever make a Seamaster Chromograph with this type of back?
Hi, they did. It says 707 and not LOL. 707 is the type of tool needed to remove the case back.
hello very informative.thank you so much for this very concise advise. would like to ask for your opinions on some items.. is it ok if i will drop some pics as well to your email? thank you so much for all your help
Hi Melvin, (apologies for the name error)
Would you kindly help me?
I’m looking to purchase an omega watch from eBay and would like your expert opinion as I don’t have any idea if I am being sold a genuine or fake Omega Deville 18k gold watch.
I have sent some pics on email if you would kindly let me know your thoughts I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you
Hi, I answered your question via email.
Hi,i recently purcheshed what i believe to be an omega Geneve linen face 1969. I was wondering if i sent you photos,could you tell me more about it ie what its model number is.regards sheldon
Yes, you send some pics to info@wahawatches.com
Melvin, if I send you some pics would you tell me your opinion? Thanks Bart (bart.may@gmail.com)
Yes, happy to help.
Hey I have a omega watch and wanting to find out if it’s reel it’s looks the part but I’m ready some stuff about fakes and not sure about it are you able to help ?
Yes, please send some pictures to info@wahawatches.com
Hello there could you take a look at some pictures on my vintage omega watch?
Happy to help. You can send them to info@wahawatches.com
Hello!
I found this beautiful Vintage Omega watch from this Etsy seller. However it is my first time looking into this and I am really not sure if it is genuine.
I look forward to hearing from you! thank you!!!
Hi, it looks like a beautiful little watch and it’s legit. We don’t appraise watches, but the asking price is way too high though. Ladies’ watches, especially if they don’t have a case made of precious metal, aren’t that expensive.
Hi
I found this Vintage Omega watch on Ebay but it is my first time buying vintage and I am not sure if it is genuine. Can I please send pictures for your expertise.
I look forward to hearing from you and thank you in advance
I’ll answer your email.
Thank you
I need help on finding out if my omega is real
Please send some pics to info@wahawatches.com
Thank you for getting back at me. very appreciated !
I have been left an omega watch, I don’t know if it’s real or fake can you help
Yes, please send some pictures of the front and back, the movement, and the inside of the case back to info@wahawatches.com
hi melvin, ihave an omega automatic that was given for 30 years service,it has the company logo where there should be writing on the lower part of the face above the 6, is that normal,plus there is no logo of amega on the winder, i havent taken off the back of the watch, it looks like gold, just wondering if you think that it sounds real and why no logo on the winder. thanks any help would help
Hi, it could totally be real. I’ve no idea why the crown isn’t signed. It could have been replaced by a generic crown at one point.
Hi I’m trying to figure out if I have a omega watch, I’ve been told it is but I’m not sure. Is there any way to send a picture to know for sure?
Lisa
Hi, sure. Please send it to info@wahawatches.com
Hi Melvin, loved the article as it was exactly what I was looking for. Any advice on the following watch? Would greatly appreciate your input. Thanks https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/396267130983895/
Hi Juan, sorry I missed this comment. It’s sometimes better to ask this kind of question directly by sending a mail to info@wahawatches.com
Hi Melvin, I have a vintage omega de ville chronograph stainless steel watch , not working unfortunately. It’s well worn but would quite like to sell it. What’s best get it repaired or sell as it is. I am a bit reluctant to take the back off to find the serial number. I was offered £900 on Saturday but think the guy as pulled out of the deal. Wendy
Hi Wendy,
We’d be happy to help. Could you send me some pictures to info@wahawatches.com?
Hi there. Ive an old Seamaster 1342 (1340.328) which I cant find any info on or any reference on the vintage database. It belonged to my grandfather from new and i have the original Omega tags, receipts from a reputable jeweler in Bristol, original box and warranty certificates. I cant find any reference to this model online and wondered if there is a rough date of manufacture? It has been sent back to Omega for a replacement face when he fell and smashed it so i know its real or they’d have spotted it. Happy to send photos later. Many thanks . Adam
Hi Adam,
If you can email a clear picture of the inside of the case back and one of the movement to info@wahawatches.com, we’d be happy to help.
Hi Melvin,
I will send you pictures of the watch that is still to be sold to me.
Hi Melvin, I have always wanted a vintage watch (wind up etc) and just came across a 1936 Omega “Birks Ellis.” I’m waiting for it to arrive any day by mail. My plan is to take it to someone I trust who owns a jewelry store. After asking the seller questions I was told it came from a collector. I hope it was a good buy for my 1st Omega (i did research as well).
Hi Mark, I hope so too. Those dual name Omegas are great. Feel free to send some pictures of the watch to info@wahawatches.com when it has arrived.
i seen a seamaster i wanted to buy and it looks legit but i cant seem to find any info at all on this style. the case is that of a 60s deville but on the dial below where it says seamaster it says 300 not 30 or deville. am i correct in that all 300s are diver watches? from what i can tell from the pics i was given no other red flags stand out
I also have acquired an Omega watch. I will send pics. Thank you so much.
Hello. I suppose that this “Omega” is fake, am I right?
(link removed)
But being fake does not mean that it is not really solid gold?…
Thank you!
You’re exactly right. The movement is very low quality and isn’t anything close to an Omega. The hallmarks are sloppy so it isn’t gold either.
Hello guys, I read some of the posts and I hope you can answer my email but I did just send you some photos of a watch I just purchased and really hope you have time to look at it! Thank you very much!
Could I send you some pics of a vintage Seamaster I am thinking of buying? Like Chris, am not sure if it’s a fake or not.
Yes, sure. You can use the same email address.
Thanks
Hi there can I email you some photos of an Omega watch I’m thinking of buying. Not sure if it’s real or not ….
Yup, you sure can. Please use info@wahawatches.com
Thanks! Just emailed!
Hi I have an Omega Seamaster DeVille watch. It was given to a man for 25 years of service at a company he worked for in 1973. That is engraved on the back. Everything I’ve read about this watch says that the second hand should stop while setting the time or it is a fake. I was wondering if that is true on all omega wathes ever made.
No, that’s not true. Many vintage watch movements don’t have a hacking feature.
Hi Melvin, I’ve been looking at a couple of second hand gold omega ladies watches. One has a symbol on the wristband, but does not have the omega symbol on the face? The other does not have an omega symbol on the winder, instead it has a sapphire in the center. Do they sound genuine or have they been tampered with. I would appreciate your opinion
Not all Omegas have the logo on the dial, sometimes just the name. Those ornate stone set crowns are called “cabochon crowns”. Perfectly fine for a ladies watch and the occasional smaller men’s watch as well. So, they sound like they could be genuine. Good luck with the hunt!
Posting on several site….On the Omega site, it states that ladies’ metal band watches come in 18K yellow or white gold or in platinum. On Ebay there is currently a good selection of supposedly genuine Omega Deville watches in 10K gold filled. Are these automatically fake? I noticed that solid gold watches from that period are designated Omega Deville Prestige. Did Omega actually make a “popular” line during this period and add “Prestige” to designate the high end line? The prices are attractive, but I would rather buy a genuine, say, Movado than a fake Omega for the money! Thanks.
In the past, there have been 10K gold filled bracelets so they’re not automatically fake. The Prestige is a 90s entry-level watch with steel, two-tone and solid gold bracelets. The Deville model itself dates back to 1967.
Is it wise to purchase a vintage wrist watch online? I found a vintage a 60’s Omega Seamaster, but I fear with my (extremely limited) knowledge it is not real.
It’s wise to ask questions before you decide to buy something and not afterward like I see so many do 😉 The watch looks perfectly fine from the pictures.
I have a omega seamaster an do not know if real.
Hi Melvin. Useful article but what if I have a 1970 Dynamic where removing the case is beyond my ability? The watch appears in suspiciously good condition, though the date set doesn’t work. Any other way to identify if genuine from the exterior? Many thanks. CS
Hi Craig,
The movement with the serial number and the case number say a lot but the Dynamic is a monobloc watch so it’s a bit more complicated to open it. You can always study the case, the dial, the hands, and the crown. If you want, you could send some pictures to info@wahawatches.com and we’ll be happy to take a look at it.