Omega is a great brand. Both the new and the vintage models are fantastic.
However, if you buy a new one from an AD or boutique, the risk of buying a lemon is very low. You can buy one with a factory flaw, but that’s out of your hands. With vintage Omegas, it’s anything but easy. Nevertheless, I’d like to provide some guidelines.
In this article, I’ll show you exactly how to identify a vintage Omega watch.
This article was originally published on April 20, 2019. It was updated and newly published on July 24, 2022.
Identifying the movement
Please don’t buy a vintage watch, let alone an Omega, without having a look at the movement. If you ask the seller for pictures of the movement, and you get a response like “I can’t” or “I don’t have the tools” or just a plain “no,” it’s best to skip that one.
Omega movements, from the 1930s and 1940s, usually have the calibre number under the balance. From the late 1940s on, the number was located on one of the bridges, often the same one as the serial number.
Every Omega movement has a serial number. In pocket watches from the early 1900s, you can find it on the dial side of the baseplate. In other words, you have to disassemble the watch to access it. Later on, the serial was always on one of the bridges.
You can find a list of serial numbers for Omega at Chronomaddox, a useful Omega resource created by the late Chuck Maddox. Note that this list doesn’t apply to Speedmasters.
Speedies have a separate list, compiled by Roman Hartmann, and you can check it here.
The 30T2 and its derivatives are a legend in their own right. They can be tricky, though.
30T2 and derivatives
Note that various versions of the calibre 30T2 sometimes have a signature of the base calibre, while that’s not necessarily the full calibre number. For example, the 30T2 PC and 30T2 PC AM are both signed 30T2 PC, because the only difference is an anti-magnetic balance in the AM version.
The Ranfft movement archive entries for movements of various Omega families list differences between particular movements of a calibre family. It’s always good to check that out when looking at a movement.
For example, when you see a cal. 265 with a flat hairspring, while it’s supposed to have a Breguet overcoil, you can be sure that it’s a 269 movement with the wrong balance.
The 30T2 had a few chronometer versions, all of a higher grade than the non-chronometer versions. These have the suffix RG in the number. You can easily recognize the RG by its distinctive regulator.
I’ve encountered cases where a dial signed “Chronometre Omega” was fitted to a non-RG 30mm movement. This is – and will always be – wrong. A non-RG 30mm movement + a “chronometre” dial = frankenwatch. No exceptions.
This is nothing more than a 5XX base without the automatic winding assembly. Of course, the barrel is different as well. They were mostly used in the Geneve collection. However, a few Seamaster De Ville models had it as well.
Theoretically, it fits in a case intended for a 5XX. If you see a 60X series movement in a case with a reference that tells you it’s a model which is supposed to be equipped with a 5XX-series automatic, that’s wrong.
Until the 1990s, the only supplier of chronograph movements for Omega was Lemania. One of the best-known ones is the cal. CH27 C12, later known as the cal. 321. There are, however, differences between the CH27 C12 and the 321.
The 321 is always marked as such and always has copper-colored plating. So, if you’re checking out an Omega chronograph from the 1950s, which is supposed to have a cal. 321, but it has a silver-colored finish on the plates, cocks, and bridges, and it doesn’t have the 321 markings, it’s simply not a 321.
Rotor automatics and their issues
Omega’s rotor automatics of the 5XX family (and everything that followed) are great. Still, they have a few problems worth noting.
You need to be extremely careful with signs of issues with the rotor. The one thing that’s known to go wrong with these movements is the axle of the rotor. When it wears out, the rotor will start rubbing against the bridge on which it sits (upper bridge for automatic device), and against the case back. The edge on the rotor will have a noticeable loss of plating. So will the upper bridge, most likely. The inner side of the case back will have a characteristic circular trace on it.
When you see that, best skip that one. It may be that the issue has been repaired. But can you be sure? Nope.
It’s also not uncommon to see movements built from spare parts. You can often spot them by an inconsistent tone of the plating throughout the various components. Of course, some parts will change color due to the different solutions they were cleaned in during a service. However, if one part has an almost yellow gold color, and the other one has a deep, dark copper tone, you can be sure they didn’t leave the factory together.
Another example of frankenising is using parts from Tissot counterparts in movements, which the two brands shared. Notably, that’s the case with the Omega 1480 and the Tissot 2471. Well, technically they’re the same thing. So, the parts are interchangeable.
I’ve seen rotors from the Tissot transplanted in an Omega. If you see something like that, skip that one.
Location of the markings
The general rule is that Omegas have all the relevant markings on the inner side of the case back. These should include a reference or serial number, the Omega stamp in a triangular frame, and the case material. Sometimes, and that usually applies to the 1950s and 1960s pieces, you can also find some info about the manufacturer of the case.
Some pieces don’t follow this pattern. For example, the two collections made for the Swedish market – the Suveran, and the Officer. These had the markings on the outside of the case back.
Also, many US market models were cased locally, in cases made by American suppliers. These often had the case material marked on the outside.
Case serial numbers
While Omega’s reference numbers start somewhere in the 1930s, they were usually not placed on the watch itself until the mid-1940s. Notable exceptions include the Naiad and Medicus models, which did sometimes have the reference stamped on the case back.
The case serials follow the same code as the serial numbers found on movements. There shouldn’t be much of a gap between the case and movement serial – 2 years tops. Note that if it’s three, for example, that doesn’t disqualify the watch. Omega has a record of pairing movements and cases from batches made within a considerable period.
While the reference numbers started to appear on cases regularly in the mid-1940s, the latest serial-stamped cases I’ve seen dated to 1947-1948. This especially applies to chronometers equipped with the 30T2 RG (all variants of the RG).
Case material codes
A two-letter case material code preceded every Omega reference. This was rarely found on the case.
It was also – at times – not very consistent. For example, with 3-, 4- and 5-digit reference numbers, the standard code for stainless steel was CK. Still, there were models in stainless steel, where the code was MI.
For watches made until the early 1960s, the codes were as follows:
- Steel: CK/MI
- Solid gold: OT/OJ
- Gold cap: KO
- Gold-filled: PK
Remember that if a reference was made in a few case material versions, the base reference number will always be the same.
So, let’s assume that you’re checking a 4-digit reference in the Omega Vintage Database (OVD) on the Omega website. The only result is a watch in solid gold, while the one you’re looking at is stainless steel. This doesn’t mean that there’s anything wrong with the watch. It’s just that you’re looking at a CK, the steel version, and the watch that is listed in the OVD is an OT/OJ, in other words, a version in solid gold.
The OVD misses plenty of entries, both entire models and different versions of listed watches.
3-, 4-, and 5-digit reference numbers
It’s unknown if these reference numbers have any meaning. I don’t suppose they’re completely random, but there aren’t any means of decoding them.
The four-digit references were used until the early 1960s.
In the late 1950s, Omega introduced a short-lived 5-digit system, paired with the same material codes as the 4-digit system. It was mostly phased out by 1962/1963.
The 6-digit system
In 1962, Omega introduced a new system of case reference numbers. By the 1970s, it was changed again, to a 7-digit system.
Still, the principle remains the same for both systems, that the first three digits define the characteristics of a watch. A key for this can be found here, along with case material codes for 6- and 7-digit reference numbers.
So, if you look at the ordinary Speedmaster reference, 145.022, 145 means: (1) Gent’s watch (4) Manual winding chronograph (5) Water-resistant.
Keep in mind, that the OVD might require you to add a 0 after the period in a 6-digit reference to look it up. For example, a 145.022 becomes 145.0022 in the search.
American market references
While models with ordinary reference numbers were available in the US, Omega has made some watches for the US market only. Only a few of these are listed in the OVD.
Usually, the references of these models had the prefix “G.” If you come across one of these, the chances of finding it in the OVD are slim. Again, this means that a watch isn’t listed there, which sadly isn’t uncommon.
Two references on one case?
That’s not unheard of. Some cases were used for two different models. The difference between them could be a completely different dial and handset. Sometimes, though, it was the movement.
Now and then, one reference could have been used with two or three different movements. Apart from one reference spanning over two or three generations of a used movement, this is also the case with pieces made for the US market. The movement in these had a different number due to a different (lower) jewel count. They had fewer jewels to avoid a higher import tariff in the US.
A collection-specific number on an unsigned watch
What if the watch you’re looking at has a reference number that tells you it’s a Seamaster, but it doesn’t say Seamaster on the dial? That’s quite common. One reference could have belonged to two collections at the same time (for example, Seamaster and Geneve), and yet the watch was also available with no collection name on the dial.
A noteworthy example of a shared reference is the Seamaster 600, which was also available as a Geneve. But there, the Seamaster always had the hippocampus logo on the back. A plain back + Seamaster 600 dial = a “franken” or a redial.
Keep in mind that a reference that was shared between different collections was a thing of the 1960s and 1970s. In the 1950s, a Seamaster reference on a watch with an unmarked dial only means that the watch was available without the collection name. Also, for a Seamaster made before ca.1958, the absence of the hippocampus logo is OK. That logo appeared on SM cases only from very late in 1957.
It’s the year of introduction that matters. For a reference introduced before 1957, the absence of the logo on a specimen from 1958 or 1959 is nothing strange.
Locally made cases
This only applies to watches that were made for the US and UK markets. Steel cases were always made in Switzerland, along with the rest of the watch. However, gold-plated and gold-filled ones for the US market were made by local suppliers, like Wadsworth.
In the UK, solid gold cases, especially the ones with the typical British purity of 9ct, were made locally by Dennison (ALD). A Dennison Omega case always has the following markings:
- Omega stamp
- Reference or serial number
- Purity mark
- Assay office stamp (London, Birmingham, Glasgow, etc.)
- A “date letter” corresponding to the year of manufacture of the case. Every assay office had a different letter assigned to a specific year.
The calibre doesn’t match the case
The first and most obvious reason for that is that the watch is a “franken,” which means that it has been assembled from random parts
However, there’s one exception.
Always check if the movement in the watch isn’t a US version of the movement mentioned in the OVD. These will have a US import code (OXG) on the balance cock, and a lower jewel count. The OVD often doesn’t list the US version of a particular reference.
This is true for almost all families of Omega rotor automatics: 4XX, 50X, 55X, 56X, 59X, 71X, and 1XXX series. For example, the jewel count is the only difference between the 470 and 471, 490 and 491, 550, and 552. And so on.
You can find the details of the differences in the Ranfft archive. Every entry for movements within a particular family list the differences between the movements within that family.
Otherwise, as mentioned in the previous part of the series, a movement that doesn’t match the case is a red flag.
Keep in mind that some vintage models are faked very often, especially the Constellation. These fakes will often check all the boxes for the marking patterns described above, but some details will tell you it’s a fake.
You can find a detailed guide to authenticate Constellation cases at Omega Constellation Collectors, which is the resource for Constellations.
All of this might seem very complicated. Still, authenticate/identify some watches for the sport of it. As a challenge. After some time, it’ll sink in and become second nature.
95 thoughts on “How to Identify a Vintage Omega ”
I just came across this page and thanks for all the great information.
I was given an Omega military style watch with an enamel dial with roman numerals and wire lugs a few years ago. I’ve been attempting to date it or find the model type without much luck.
The following 12 digit number (in 3 rows of 4 numbers) is on the inner side of the case back:
3722 3363 1661
The following number is stamped on the movement:
I can also send photos of the watch, inside case back and the movement if that helps.
Any information on the age or model or where I might be able to find that information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks and kind regards,
I have recently found a Omega watch that belonged to my father. It was given to him back in 1975 which the engraving said on the back cover. It been in a box for many years. The watch is in need of a good cleaning. I took the back cover off and the gasket was like tar. I clean it up the best I could. I replaced the battery and it works just fine. I contacted Omega to see how much it would be to get the watch clean and repaired. It’s quite a bit of money. I was going to see what I could do on my own. I can’t seem to find a back gasket for the watch. The number on the inside back cover say 198.030 I can’t seem to find a back gasket for this watch. Any suggestions where I might find one? Also, any chance you could tell me what date this watch was made and what the model # is? All it says on the watch is OMEGA Electronic f300 Chronometer. I can send pictures if that would help.
Hi, the 198.030 is a Geneve tuning fork chronometer with a 1250 movement. Part of a collection that was launched in 1972. You can find the gasket here. Fill in 198.030 in the case number field and click search for items.
Hi Melvin, I find your webpage and posts very interesting but nothing about the Omega watch that my son purchased for my wife! It is a 26mm 18K case with a 2681 25 Jewel movement. The case has the markings you have indicated with the serial #BA 566 0285 in it. Looks like the original stamping but another number was added (51682523). It has a white face with the date on the right and says Omega (w/logo) on top and Automatic at six o’clock & swiss made on the bottom. Any idea whether or not this is ledigit?
Hi, please email some pictures to email@example.com
I am trying to find out any info that I can on this watch and it was my father’s that’s an Omega automatic DeVille it’s got the TV style dial date at the bottom we’re six would be gold case steel back but you can’t get in the back there’s no way of getting the back off I heard that some of these watches you’d have to go through the front is that correct? And then on the case itself there is three characters 20 then the omega symbol.. do you have any information on the age of this watch and if it’s a gold it runs perfectly of course I can’t open it and I really don’t want to try it myself but to set the time the hands go around smoothly and you can’t hear anything inside you know rattling when you wind it so please let me know my name is Mark Simpson.
Hi, we can’t say anything useful without knowing the serial number of the movement and the reference number on the inside of the case back. If you can’t or don’t want to open the watch, have a watchmaker do it for you. Please send any pictures and/or info about the serial number and reference number to firstname.lastname@example.org
You’re right, some watches don’t have a functional case back, so you’ll have to go through the front.
I removed your personal info from the original comment.
Hi there guys , I have a very old omega pocket watch with a Labrador movement in working condition, the case is USA made ,made of two plates of gold with plate of composition between and to wear 20 years and a serial no underneath. The dial has no omega markings on it , but one can see the numbers where hand painted on , how valuable is a piece like this , keeps beautiful time to this day
Hi Raymond, sorry but we don’t appraise watches. You can check eBay or auction sites for similar sold items.
Took great interest in this article. I’m visiting Paris next week and will be viewing an Omega 2391 located here: https://www.chrono24.com/omega/omega-23913–id15045063.htm
The serial number doesn’t match the watch description. My research indicates it’s a 1945-46 watch and not a 1949-50 watch. I’m also concerned about the hands. They don’t look like they’re from the correct period but could be wrong. I’m getting the sense it’s a Franken watch. Can you tell me if there is anything else I should be looking for when I go see it in person?
I was hoping you could help me.
I have received this vintage OMEGA watch from my mother in law and she said that it belonged to her father. Even Though it looks like a very old watch but still in very good condition.
I was able to check it’s caliber(movement) number and serial number, but there is no reference number of this watch on the case back so, I don’t even know it’s model name.
Obviously it doesn’t look like a Seamaster, because there is no name on the dial except OMEGA.
It looks like a gold watch, because it looks like a gold case.
Herewith, the information I know is below.
1) movement (Cal.) number :268
2) serial number : 18394353
3) number ” 750″ on the case back (inside) but no OMEGA logo or other information.
4) numbers on the case (outside) : 265805
There are no other details that I could see.
I have looked all over to try to identify this watch, but cannot find a watch that exactly looks like it..
I am sure it is not a fake.
I took some photos of this watch to show you (Please find the attached watch images)
Could you please identify this watch for me..?
Do you have any ideas?
Thank you very much in advance.
I have already sent you some watch images to your email address.
I’m looking forward to hearing from you soon.
Hi, I emailed you.
Hi I have just acquired a vintage omega watch from my late father and was wondering how to tell what model and year it is
You’ll need the serial number on the movement and the reference number on the inside of the case back.
I was hoping you could help me. My grand father had an omega seamaster 30t2 on the face of the watch. It has number at 6; 9; and 12 at the 3 o’clock position there is a date. It is gold in colour, not sure if it is gold plated? It also has a smaller dial, just above the 6 o’clock position.
I popped the back open and it says omega watch co. And 17 rubies. There is also a number hardly legible on the inside of the back plate, 891174 and it looks like a B at the end. It looks more like it has been scratched in, rather that clearly marked. There is no other details that I could see.
I have looked all over to try and identify this watch, bu, cannot find a watch that looks like it..I am sure it is not a fake. We think my grand father got this during WW 2… any ideas
Hi, please send some pictures to email@example.com
Hi I have just acquired a seamaster cosmic I think it’s from the 60s it needs a crown and stem but don’t know what size 2 get on auction sites as I don’t want 2 open it up as u have remove glass 2 get 2 movement case number is 136017 tool number 107 thanks
Hi, it would be better to have a watchmaker do it. The movement is a 613 so you need a stem for that, but it needs to be one in two parts. The crown is restricted by Omega so you’ll need an account or you have to look for it on eBay.
I have a stainless Omega that appears to be a Geneve, but no model is indicated on the face, only “Omega Automatic.” It was given to me in about 1972. At the time, Omega Watches was located in the building in which I lived in NYC, and my father purchased it directly from them. Can you help me identify the model?
Hi. I’ll certainly do my best. Please send some pictures of the front and back, plus some pictures of the inside of the case back and the movement to firstname.lastname@example.org
I have an Omega Seamaster Date Automatic with what looks like a 1960’s case. The back has the Hypocampus and is no-removeable.
Someone referenced the hour markers as “coffin like”.
The watch was serviced but I failed to ask the shop to take pictures and its been so long that they do not have the records of movement or reference number. If you send me your email, I can send pics of dial and case back..
Just curious about what I have..
Hi, I sent you an email.
I recently Inherited a men’s omega wrist watch from 1939, however, I know nothing else. I couldn’t find the model anywhere at all – its a 14k rose gold wrist watch serial number 9233721. Do you happen to know anything about it?
Please send some pictures of the dial, the movement and the inside of the case back to email@example.com
Hi, I just purchased an Omega watch today and can’t find it anywhere. I registered on the Omega website but it’s not pulling up any of the numbers that I put in under the Vintage Watch search. I’m wondering if you might be able to help, please? It’s a ladies watch and on the inside of the watch back says: 18k(0.750) then 10749569 and under that is 3731. I figured out that it’s from 1944 but that’s it. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi, please send some pictures of the movement and the inside of the case back to firstname.lastname@example.org
I have this OmegaElectronic f 300 Hz Seamaster Chronometer watch. It’s a 20 microns gold plated bracelet. Is there any possibility the case material can be solid Gold? Outside the case is yellow gold color but the inside is white/silver color. The serial number at the back of the case is CD 198.001 and have every inscription and signs at the back as shown in the above picture. It also bear other tiny inscription of which i find it difficult to read. This tiny inscription is not in any of pictures here.
Hi, it could be solid gold. Please send pictures of the watch and especially the inside of the case back to email@example.com
I have an Omega De Ville from my father and want to know is it Gold Plated or it is Pure Gold.
He says that the watch is pure gold but after checking the serial number from the back in the Omega website I see that the model is gold plated.
On the back of the watch, it has a stamp 18k 0.750, Helvetia stamp, something like a key with “29” inside.
The serial number is “511.0404” and under that number, there is another row with “107”. It has the triangle stamp “omega watch with the logo” and under that have the sign ” fab.suisse” and “suiss made”.
Is it possible to help solve that problem?
It is not a problem to send a picture of the watch.
Thank you in advance.
Hi, I’ve replied to your email.
Excellent information on Omega watches…very knowledgeable!
I recently purchased an Omega oversized 1952 (?) Cal 265. Please would you be able to verify that it’s genuine? I really like the watch am I’m hoping it is!
Hi Pete, please send some pictures of the front and back, plus some pictures of the inside of the case back and the movement to firstname.lastname@example.org
A brand new Omega quartz watch from around 1980. Do you have any information on these watches?
Hi, that’s way too general. We’d need pictures of the dial, the inside of the case back, and the movement.
HI I am having terrible trouble trying to identify my grandfathers watch. I know its from the 50’s. its solid 18K Gold and it only has the Omega triangle seal on back, the numbers 16120, a small numbered stamp 170? and the gold purity stamp. I am too scared to open the case to get the serial number can anyone determine anything about this watch based on this information? be more than happy to email photos.
Hi, we’re happy to help. Please send some pictures to email@example.com
Hello Could you ID an old Omega wrist watch my myself
Could I send a photo of the watch to you?
Hi, sure. Please send them to firstname.lastname@example.org
I am being offered an Omega watch.
On the movement inside the number is 10226416
Inside the case back the numbers are: 2179/4 and FA 121161
What can you tell from these numbers?
It’s part of the international collection that was launched in 1941. It has a 30T2 movement and this particular watch is from around 1944.
I have a 14k gold OMEGA ladies bracelet watch.
Can someone identify the meaning of the code breakdown?
Thank you for your help.
Lost movement out of my Gents 14Kt yellow gold Omega had watch since 1964 just wondering if possible to get a movement and what would the apx coast would be , some how the movement got out ? Had the watch for 56 years still have the outer case and crystal . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bill k.
You’ll have to find a movement (plus dial and hands?) on eBay or a watch forum. It won’t be cheap because it probably will need to be serviced as well. Please send a picture of the inside of the case back to email@example.com
Hello, I have Omega Ladymatic, crosshair dial. serial number indicates it was produced in 1958. Not sure if it is stainless steel or white gold. Serial number 16323497. Cal 455-*2, cover 2978-4. Can you please provide more information.
Hi, you seem to have all the relevant information already. There’s nothing I can add.
I have an inherited ladies Omega watch and on the back inside cover it says Omega Watch Co. with omega sign inside a triangle, below that “14k gold”, below that “L&W”, below that AA7806 and below that 47261. Any ideas.
Hi, please send some pictures including the movement and the inside of the case back to firstname.lastname@example.org
A really helpful information. Great summary. Thank you very much. In the picture you show an Omega Seamaster De Ville unishell with the reference number 136.020 SP. What does the “SP” stand for. Does it have something to do with the deliveries to America?
Hi, Marc. That one has been a bit of a mystery. We believe in the table that’s listed in A Journey Through Time which mentions that it stands for Special.
Indeed. Mystery… A few some of these 166020 cases were sent to Morris USA with a 560 completely configured by Omega. So not only the movements but the whole watch with case made by SWISS. Could it be that Omega then marked this shipment with SP (“special”)? Have you heard anything about this theory?
Sorry, I’ve never heard that story before. I don’t have the watch anymore, otherwise, I could have checked if the movement has the Omega import code for the American market.
Great article! Thank you!
I recently found Omega open-face pocket watch as my father’s heirloom. It has a serial number under back cover (7946668) and another serial number on a movement (7253866). Is it possible that they differ?
On the inside there is Omega logo without triangle. 15 jewels.
I couldn’t find any reference in databases. Could you help me with the year?
good day from california. i recently bought a 30mm Omega watch. it is indeed a beauty. it is gold plated. no marking on the back casing. but on the inside there is Omega logo, (no triangle) then it says Omega. below that it reads 144529. The movement itself has a serial # of 9234846 Unadjusted 15 jewels and has a 3 digit OX6 i believe. Also reads OMEGA WATCH Co Swiss. trying to find out what year this is. the front of the watch is a white dial and has small seconds hand on bottom. manual wind. any info would help.
Hi, George. The serial number indicates that the watch is from ca 1940. The 3 digits are the US import code OXG, which is the code for Omega.
thanks for the quick reply. much appreciated.Online i have seen all the back casings with the omega logo inside a triangle but this watch does not have the triangle. is that normal for the time. i thank you in advance for your knowledge and time. thanks
Hi, George. Please send a picture of the inside of the case back to email@example.com
Thank you for that great article.
I have recently bought a Omega (Fab. Suisse) with 30T1 movement. The watch has a subsecond at 6 o’clock.
On the bridge: 9179542
The Case back (inside) states:
Triangle: Logo and OMEGA
I think Fab. Suisse stands for: made for French market
The watch comes with a fantastic black dial with roman numerals in Art Deco style.
I think the watch is from 1943 but I don’t know if case number and movement number fit together.
Lol Fab. Suisse literally just means fabrication is Swiss.
Hi, I’ve recently bought an Omega Speedmaster Automatic Date circa 1991.
Movement serial number: ?
Omega Speedmaster Automatic Date
Calibre 1155 – ETA 7750
2 x case numbers: 1750043 & 3750043
No unique identifying number on movement; Serial number on case back: 53638035
99.9% of things written about Omega suggests this movement should be clearly marked with a unique identifier but there are a couple of articles that suggest Omega dropped the ball with this movement? There are articles suggesting the Omega 1155 is the crudest movement ever used by Omega. This movement was apparently only used in 1991 but I believe it was used in a LE of 500 pieces for the French Market celebrating the 1992 Albertville Winter Olympics.
I’m interested in any information or view you might have on my watch.
Please let me add I have had the watch looked at by two Omega trained watchmakers and neither is prepared to say the watch is fake or original.
I have paid for an Extract from the Archives and am waiting for it to be processed.
Such a great article! Congrats on this excellent work!
I have got a watch from 1964 according to the reference number. However the case doesn’t really match any 6 digits number… 14.90–62-SC.
Any thoughts on what it could be?
I can email you a pic if needed
Dear, hope you are fine, same here. I just bought an Omega with 15 jewels movement and caliber number 30T2 is under the balance wheel. Its serial number is 10087475. The dial is with off center minute hand and seamaster is not written on it. The case back is with hippocampus logo and inside the case back its written:
WATCH CO. (inside the triangle stamp)
Please guide me regarding authenticity of this watch and from which year it belongs to
Hi, the 30T2 is an older movement and based on the serial number, this particular one is from 1944.
However, the 135.007 is from the Geneve international collection that was introduced around 1969.
So, I’m sorry, but this watch is not 100% original.
Thanks dear, I am obliged for guiding me in expeditious manner
I have a Omega “Automatic”purchased 5/71 at the Geneva airport, the face reads automatic and GENEVE . Recently the automatic date number stopped changing any suggestions.
It sounds like there’s something wrong with the calendar works. The watch needs to be overhauled by a watchmaker.
Great article and quite informative. I have two vintage Omegas, one of which I have pinned down, the second I haven’t yet taken to the maker to get opened, and a question on each.
The first is a ’68 (26,9XX, XXX) Seamaster w/ date, caliber 565, on the original rice bracelet and original hexalite (man, those little “Ω” are microscopic!). However, the rear case stamping is “166.037 SP”, which I understand to be Geneve rear case… was this a swapped on part?
The second is a 14K/stainless Seamaster De Ville, crosshair, date cyclops, and interestingly without a “De Ville” callout on the bottom of the dial (leading me to believe this is a 1960-1962 unit). The seller states it is an automatic with 19,800bph. Without opening it up, how can I confirm the movement? I have been winding it, but it is *not running* and I bought it as such. I don’t want to overwind it!
Thanks gents, extremely informative site.
The 166.037 is a reference for a Seamaster produced between 1966 and 1970, so 1968 fits perfectly. That’s the original case back and watch.
As for the Seamaster De Ville, without opening it up it’ll be a guess. Omega produced them both with manual and automatic movements. I believe that a model with an automatic movement should say so on the dial just below Omega. However, I’m not 100% sure that’s a hard rule.
Thank you for the reply! Excellent news on the 1968. She’s a beautiful piece and I plan on wearing while driving my 1968 Mustang fastback – just a perfect combination.
I did indeed open my early Seamaster. I found that it is caliber 562, 24 jewel, which I believe makes it a non-US model (is it even a De Ville, without the dial stating the “De Ville” text?)
The caseback states:
ACIER INOXYADABLE (stainless steel?)
WATCH CO. (inside the triangle stamp)
14770 1 SC
C6 (inside of a “tombstone” stamp)
It also has an unusual dial, which I haven’t found an image of online yet.
It’s a crosshair, gold applique hour markers, “Ω” and “OMEGA”; AUTOMATIC is printed, “paperclip-S,” long “R” Seamaster font, but the minute track is inset of a white band all the way around the circumference of the dial’s face. It almost looks like a Geneve I found on the vintage Omega webpage, but even that wasn’t exactly it. (I know they made countless variations on these watches but I’m unsure if this is a redial or not!)
In any case, I’m glad to report both are now ticking away happily!
Thank you again.
Hi, you’re right. The 14770 is a Seamaster DeVille from the international collection from 1960 onward. I’m curious about the dial. If it’s possible, please send me a picture to firstname.lastname@example.org
Yessir! Shot you an email with images of both watches.
I have an Oméga Deville “Jeux d’Argent ” from 1974
Serial number 35251916 for women. Would you know how much I can sell it?
561 672 4604
Hi, I’m sorry but we don’t value watches. The best thing you can do is to look for similar sold watches on eBay or other auction sites.
Hi,i have apocket watch with the serial number 1533857. Can you help me date it ?
Hi, are you sure about that serial number? I think you’re missing a number somewhere or it’s not an Omega movement.
i have dial omega neptune enamel , around 39mm, which omega movements will be suitable for such dial size? thanks beforehand for attention
I’m sorry, but I’ve no idea. It depends on whether it has a sweep second or sub-second. Manual wind or automatic. I’ve seen the Omega 23.4 and the 352 mentioned.
My omega silver pocket watch,is in complete original working condition moment serial number is 7671138,i want to know the year of manufacture of my watch.
Hi, it’s made in 1932 or 1933.
Hi, I got a Omega pocket watch with no 8838306. What might be the manufacturing year?
Hi Cornel, the year would be 1938 or 1939.
Love the site. I am looking at an “Omega” pocket watch with serial number 1350547. It would seem this should be from 1895 to 1902. The serial number is beside the winding wheel on the motor barrel bridge. My issue is that I can see the number just by opening the case whereas your site says I need to dissassemble the watch to see the number. Also only the only jewel evident is the balance end stone (I only have a photo of the movement). Does this sound like it could be genuine?
Hi, please send a picture of the movement to email@example.com
The mechanism is 6727172 ,how can I get more details about this whatch.is a wristwatch of ladies.please
The serial number points to the late 1920s.
Hi I just purchased an Omega pocket watch with the serial number 11172450 and wondering the age please
The serial number points to 1947 or 1948.
I got a pocket watch with all no 10078392. What might be the manufacturing year
Hi, the year would be 1945 or 1946.
Learning watch expertise is for professionals only which is why I am seeking advice to have a 1962 Speedmaster watch properly serviced. Welcome any input. Jeff.firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi, any independent watchmaker should be able to service your Speedmaster, but I’d look for someone who is certified by Omega. He or she will know the proper procedures and will be able to order spare parts if necessary. Omega advices to replace certain parts during a service, for example, and an independent watchmaker will not be aware of this.
Glad you like it!
I’m thinking if getting an Omega watch numbered 10372233. Can you tell me anything about the watch?
Thank you in advance.
Hi, please send some pictures of the movement and the inside of the case back to email@example.com
I got a pocket watch sn 1370437. Can anyone help me with info? Pls
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