Service: Alpina Dress Watch with Alpina 592 Movement

 In Watchmaking

I love Alpina watches. It’s one of my first mentions if someone asks me for undervalued watch brands.

This one has a stainless steel case, and it measures 34mm without the original signed crown.

The movement is the in-house Alpina 592 with a sub-second and a nickel screw balance. This version has 15 jewels but there’s also a version with 17 jewels.

It has a serial number (800232), but as far as I know, there aren’t any charts that’ll tell you the year of production.

Disassembly

Before you start working on a mechanical movement, make sure to remove all the power from the mainspring. This method will prevent any damage while working on the wheel train.

Move the click away from the ratchet wheel while letting the crown slip between your thumb and index finger.

When all power has been removed, you can safely lift the balance and the pallet fork.

Alpina dress watch with an Alpina 592 movement

The balance and the pallet fork removed. There is a blob of hardened grease around the center wheel pivot. The crown wheel screw and the ratchet wheel screw are also tarnished.

Turn the movement around and lift the cannon pinion. You won’t be able to remove the center wheel later if you forget this.

Remove the ratchet wheel and the crown wheel, and lift the barrel bridge. Use a glass fiber brush to remove as much tarnish from the screws as possible.

Take out the barrel.

Alpina dress watch with an Alpina 592 movement

The ratchet wheel, crown wheel, barrel bridge, and the barrel removed. If you look closely, you can see the movement has been overoiled because there are puddles of oil underneath the barrel bridge.

When I opened the barrel, it was obvious that it still had an older style mainspring. The inside of the barrel and the barrel arbor was also caked with solidified grease. I removed the mainspring and ordered a new one.

Alpina dress watch with Alpina 592 movement

The barrel with the old mainspring.

Lift the wheel-train bridge and remove the escape wheel, the 4th wheel, the 3rd wheel, and the center wheel.

Alpina dress watch with an Alpina 592 movement

The top plate empty except for the set lever screw.

Flip the movement around and start with the bottom plate.
Remove the motion works and the keyless works.

Alpina dress watch with an Alpina 592 movement

The bottom plate empty.

Pre-clean the pivot holes and bearing jewels with a peg wood.
Clean all the parts in the watch cleaning machine.

Assembly

Start with the set lever screw because this is a fiddly job. It’s easiest without any other parts installed.

Place the barrel and the wheel train in position.

Reinstall the wheel-train bridge.

Alpina dress watch with an Alpina 592 movement

The barrel, the wheel train, and the wheel-train bridge back in position.

Install the barrel bridge, the crown wheel with its ring, and the ratchet wheel.

Alpina dress watch with an Alpina 592 movement

The barrel bridge, the ratchet wheel, and the crown wheel fitted.

Turn the movement around and start with the motion works and the keyless works.

Alpina dress watch with an Alpina 592 movement

The bottom plate reassembled except for the hour wheel and the dial washer.

Flip the movement to the top plate and reinstall the pallets and the balance.

At first, it did run but the amplitude was very low and timekeeping was all over the place. It didn’t make sense because the pallet fork snapped to the next position with the slightest touch.

It turns out that the jewel hole wasn’t completely centered.

Alpina dress watch with Alpina 592 movement

The jewel hole and the cap jewel.

The cap jewel on the left fits on top of the jewel hole on the right and together they fit in the hole of the Incabloc block. The balance staff pivot goes through the little hole in the jewel hole. When the jewel hole isn’t perfectly centered, the pivot rubs against the side and that causes enough friction to mess up timekeeping.

I cleaned the jewel hole and the cap jewel and lubricated it with a tiny bit of Moebius 9010. It started to run beautifully after I installed it correctly.

Put the hour wheel and the dial washer in place and attach the dial. Proceed with the casing of the movement.

Alpina dress watch with Alpina 592 movement

This Alpina has an extra cover for the movement. Just like an Omega Speedmaster for example.

I fitted a new crystal because the old one was cracked and I used some KT22 grease on the tube. This adds a little bit of extra water resistance.

Alpina dress watch with Alpina 592 movement

With its stainless steel case and silver dial, it looks much better on a new black leather strap.

What do you think of this Alpina dress watch? Do you have a similar one in your collection? Let me know in the comments below.

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    Martin Lee
    Reply

    A really classy looking watch..always good to see such a nice piece bought back to life- even if it isn`t one from a manufacturer that is a “famous name”

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