Review: Belvans Heritage

A few years ago, I wrote a fairly extensive piece about French watches – part historical overview, part spotlight on brands from a bygone era. However, French watchmaking seems to be on a roll lately, with more and more brands either revived or created.

So, when approached by a new one about checking out their watch, I found the opportunity genuinely exciting.

Meet Belvans

Belvans is a very young brand, founded in 2023 in Paris by three passionate watch enthusiasts. Interestingly, one of them has worked in watch retail at the Publicis, a large store on Champs-Elysees, selling everything from newspapers to luxury goods.

Having worked in watch retail myself as a fellow WIS, I see that as an excellent foundation for creating a watch designed with enthusiasts in mind. After all, the clientele at Publicis is known for being particularly demanding – and according to Belvans, that was very much the case.

The brand now operates a workshop just outside Besançon – the historic heart of French watchmaking. It’s here that Belvans handles its design, finishing, and assembly. And right from the start, I have to applaud them: they’re doing as much as possible in-house, whereas most microbrands begin by outsourcing the entire manufacturing process.

Interestingly, as one of very few microbrands, Belvans watches are available in brick-and-mortar retail – namely at…yes, you guessed it, the Publicis in Paris.

The Heritage – first impressions

I was quite taken by the photos of the Heritage on the website, and the specification on paper looked very promising as well. Upon opening the box, I was not disappointed – it definitely lives up to my expectations, and then some. 

Apart from the striking lines and great finishing, it also feels rock-solid from the get-go.

On a side note, I do have a small dilemma – is this a sporty dress watch, or a dressy sports watch? In the end, the label doesn’t really matter, but with a watch that blends the hallmarks of both styles in nearly equal measure, I find myself wondering what to call it.

The dial and hands

What instantly draws the eye are the hands and numerals: a classic combination of tall Roman numerals with serifs and a feuille (leaf) handset. It’s a tried and tested pairing, which you’ll find from „budget darlings” like the Tissot Le Locle all the way up to high-end dress watches like Blancpain’s Villeret collection. 

However, there’s this one seemingly light, but extraordinarily effective design element that sets a different tone for the whole thing – the counterweight on the seconds hand. If it looks familiar, that’s because it should: it’s shaped like the Eiffel Tower. What I especially appreciate is the restraint in its execution. It’s there, it’s recognizable, but it never overwhelms. The base of the tower shape is also a great match for the Roman numerals with their serifs.

Why am I mentioning the handset and numerals first? Largely because, unlike on most no-lume black dials, the polished hands and markers here don’t simply vanish into the background. The reason lies in the dial paint: Musou black. Ultra-black paints have been making headlines in recent years – with Vantablack as the most famous example.

Unlike Vantablack, Musou black doesn’t produce the effect of an observable black hole, a ripple in reality. Vanta’s 99.965% of light absorption vs. Musou’s 99.4% makes a world of difference in visual effect. However, putting the Heritage up against the darkest black dial watch I own, the Longines Spirit, the Belvans’ Musou black dial easily wins this little comparison. 

Bottom line, that dial is just way too dark for the high-polished hands and numerals to disappear into. Under particularly unfavorable lighting, legibility does fade, as is typical for dress watches. However, the Heritage remains readable in conditions far darker than those that would render a standard black dial dress watch illegible. In writing that may not sound remarkable, but in the metal it makes all the difference. I call that a huge win for this one.

The case

It’s safe to say the real star of the show here is the case. The amount of contrast finishing, the quality of the brushing and the intricacy of the design are the very first things that strike you when opening the box.

The form alone is fascinating. Both the bezel and the midcase play around the loose form of an octagon. However, the clever use of convex and concave contours makes it both streamlined and angular at the same time. 

Initially, in the photos it seemed like the bezel has a step to it, which…it does and doesn’t. There’s something a bit more interesting going on here – the top surface of the bezel has a sharply cut trench in it, with a matte finish inside. It produces a subtle optical illusion of a stepped bezel, more interesting than a typical „step” would be.

Oh, and the bezel shape is reflected – that groove included – in the logo-signed crown.

This whole package is further accentuated by the facets of the crystal slightly protruding above the bezel surface. If that level of depth in the design doesn’t impress, I’m not sure what would. Consider me seriously impressed.

And I haven’t even touched on to the strictly technical part yet. Apart from being beautifully finished, it’s also a well-engineered case. My only real criticism is the way it’s presented as a titanium case. In truth, it’s mostly steel, with a titanium-lined interior. That lining isn’t just for show – it helps stabilize the movement against temperature shifts and adds extra protection against magnetic fields. If I may offer a suggestion, this clever bit of engineering deserves more than the simple label of “titanium case.” A proprietary name would not only sound more compelling, but also shine a light on the ingenuity behind it.

One detail I have to applaud is that every version of the Heritage comes with a DLC (diamond-like coating) protecting the case exterior. With such intricate finishing, I really appreciate that Belvans chose to add this layer of scratch resistance. A case this beautiful deserves to keep its looks for as long as possible.

The movement

I’ll admit, I had some reservations about the Miyota 8-series. Mostly because, to put it mildly, it’s rarely a feast for the eyes. Few brands bother to dress it up, and the basic versions – like the cal. 8215 – are as unremarkable in looks as they are in specifications.

However, that’s not the case here. Belvans opted for a higher-grade movement from the 8-series, the cal. 8315 – and that’s a very different story. The top plate and balance cock are adorned with Geneva stripes, accented by blued screws for a more refined look. The power reserve has been extended from the 82XX series’ 42 hours to a respectable 60. Those refinements, at least, can be credited to Miyota.

Belvans has equipped the Heritage’s movement with a custom rotor, and they’ve done an absolutely fantastic job with that. The main part is high-polished, skeletonized into the shape of Belvans’ crown emblem. The outermost part and the “arms” of the rotor have been decorated with a beautiful guilloche pattern, and the base – with extremely fine reeding.

One thing that’s worth noting is that the 8-series’ unidirectional automatic winding is rather loud. Definitely louder than in Miyota’s more sophisticated offering, the 9-series. However, if you don’t mind bumper automatics or the unidirectional rotor in Valjoux chronographs, you won’t mind it here either.

I never thought I’d see the day that I’d say “damn, this 8-series Miyota looks good.” That day has, however, come. Damn, this 8-series Miyota looks good.

Belvans’ effort with the movement does not end on the looks, though. Out of the factory, Miyota rates the 8315 at -20 to +40 seconds per day. At Belvans’ workshop in Franche-Comté, however, each movement is regulated to a tighter -10 to +20 seconds per day – the same standard typically applied to non-chronometer ETA and Sellita calibers.

It’s proof that even a movement known for being basic and utilitarian can be transformed into something both visually striking and respectably accurate. It takes real effort to achieve that, and I’m glad to see Belvans putting in the work.

And one more thing: while most watches in this price range settle for a mineral crystal display back, here you get to admire the movement through a proper sapphire.

The strap

The Belvans Heritage comes on a semi-matte, black crocodile-grain calfskin strap with a Belvans-designed and signed buckle. It’s a fitting choice for this watch – elegant at its core, yet with just a hint of sportiness.

The strap is on the thicker side, and while it doesn’t mold to the wrist right away, once it does, it’s very comfortable. I admit I’ve bent it slightly bit by bit to accelerate the process, as I generally do with thick leather straps like this one. Of course, you can just let your wrist break it in naturally, but this way gets you there a little faster.

You’ve probably already noticed that the strap uses a proprietary attachment system. A single link connects to the 12mm lugs via a spring bar, while the strap itself is secured to that link with screws. The downside? If you’d like to swap it out for an aftermarket strap, you’ll need to have one custom-made by a strapmaker – there simply aren’t any off-the-shelf options that’ll fit.

However, as I’ve been told, Belvans will offer a number of OEM straps for the Heritage, and there’s also a metal bracelet in the works. So if you’re looking to accessorize, there will be plenty of options available directly from the brand.

How you receive it

Another plus definitely goes to the packaging. The Heritage arrives in a gloss-lacquered box that perfectly matches the character of the watch. No corners have been cut in the presentation, and as far as first impressions go, this one absolutely delivers.

Verdict?

I think it’s a great watch in a number of ways. 

It’s both sporty and elegant. It won’t work with a Star Trek: Deep Space Nine T-shirt – I know, I’ve tried. However, I don’t think it was designed with sci-fi nerd tees in mind. What it will handle, though, is an unexpected dip at a poolside cocktail party, thanks to its 100m water resistance.

Jokes aside, it’ll work with anything from a polo shirt to a tuxedo, and that’s a broad range of outfits. 

But I think it is, first and foremost, a brilliant exercise in engineering, design, clever use of materials, as well as an absolute fest of finishing. 

Effort and thought went into the design and manufacturing alike, and I really appreciate that. If Belvans will keep the same level of dedication to design and detail in whatever project they’ll come up with next, I believe they have a great future ahead of them.

The Heritage, in all three case versions, is priced at €700. Admittedly, that’s not insignificant, and with a Miyota 8-series inside it might seem steep at first glance. But considering the engineering, the impressive finishing, and the quality of materials, I’d say that’s a fair deal. Considering how much of the work – especially for such a young microbrand – is done in-house, I think the effort and the end result fully justify the price.

For me, this watch is simply a joy to look at whenever I check the time. So much so that I probably lose a few extra seconds each time I do. And that’s what – in the end – a beautiful watch should do.

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Tech specs

• Width: 38mm
• Lug width: 22mm (strap width), 12mm (strap attachment)
• Lug to lug: 46mm (without end links), 49.5mm (with end links)
• Thickness: 11mm
• Water resistance: 100m/10 ATM/ 10bar
• Case material: stainless steel with external clear DLC, titanium plating on the inside
• Crystal: sapphire with ARC on the inside, sapphire display back
• Strap: Italian calf leather with embossed crocodile pattern
• Movement: Miyota 8315 – 21600 A/h, 21 jewels, unidirectional rotor automatic, seconds hack feature, 60h power reserve, custom Belvans rotor
• Additional info: currently a limited production run of 1000 units