Restoration: Marti Watch with Standard/AS 1686 Movement
I got this Marti watch in a batch and decided to restore it. The brand is a jeweler’s brand from Amsterdam, the Netherlands. I’d date this Marti to be a 1960s watch. The movement is a Standard/ AS 1686 with 17 jewels. The watch had a very bad crystal, a dirty dial and the movement was dry and full of debris as well. It ran irregularly with a low amplitude.
As always, I start with removing the balance and the pallets.
Then I flip it to the dial side to remove the motion works and the keyless works.
Flip it back again and start with removing the wheel train bridge.
After you’ve removed the sweep-second wheel, third wheel and the escape wheel, the center-wheel cock, and the center-wheel are left.
After this step, I remove the center-wheel cock but I can’t immediately remove the center-wheel. To be able to do this, first, the ratchet wheel has to be removed.
I removed the ratchet wheel and the crown wheel. Then I lifted the barrel bridge, the center-wheel and finally the main barrel. I use a peg wood to pre-clean everything before I clean everything in the watch cleaning machine. Take extra care in cleaning the bearing jewels and the pallets.
As always, I begin with the main barrel and then the wheel train. Before the wheels are replaced I have to fit the endstones on the dial side again. I lubricate them with a tiny bit of Moebius 9010. The center-wheel first, then the center-wheel cock and the escape wheel. The other two wheels follow.
Remember to fit the barrel bridge and ratchet wheel back first before you reinstall the third wheel and the sweep-second wheel.
I refitted the crown wheel, third wheel, and sweep-second wheel and reinstalled the wheel train bridge.
I turn the movement to install the motion work and the keyless works.
I flip the movement to reinstall the pallets, pallet cock, and the balance.
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