Restoration: Marti Watch with Standard/AS 1686 Movement

 In Watchmaking

I got this Marti watch in a batch and decided to restore it. The brand is a jeweler’s brand from Amsterdam, the Netherlands. I’d date this Marti to be a 1960s watch. The movement is a Standard/ AS 1686 with 17 jewels. The watch had a very bad crystal, a dirty dial and the movement was dry and full of debris as well. It ran irregularly with a low amplitude.

Marti watch

Marti watch. The damaged crystal and dirty dial are immediately clear.


As always, I start with removing the balance and the pallets.

Marti watch

The tiny pieces of debris and dust particles are clearly visible.

Then I flip it to the dial side to remove the motion works and the keyless works.

Marti watch

All stripped except for the endstones and the set lever. Interestingly, the 3rd wheel has received an endstone on the baseplate but not on the wheel train bridge.

Flip it back again and start with removing the wheel train bridge.

Marti watch

Here you can see the sweep-second wheel, third wheel, and the escape wheel.

After you’ve removed the sweep-second wheel, third wheel and the escape wheel, the center-wheel cock, and the center-wheel are left.

Marti watch

Center-wheel cock and the center-wheel left.

After this step, I remove the center-wheel cock but I can’t immediately remove the center-wheel. To be able to do this, first, the ratchet wheel has to be removed.

Marti watch

You can see that the center-wheel runs underneath the ratchet wheel.

I removed the ratchet wheel and the crown wheel. Then I lifted the barrel bridge, the center-wheel and finally the main barrel. I use a peg wood to pre-clean everything before I clean everything in the watch cleaning machine. Take extra care in cleaning the bearing jewels and the pallets.


As always, I begin with the main barrel and then the wheel train. Before the wheels are replaced I have to fit the endstones on the dial side again. I lubricate them with a tiny bit of Moebius 9010. The center-wheel first, then the center-wheel cock and the escape wheel. The other two wheels follow.

Marti watch

Main barrel, center-wheel, and center-wheel cock and escape wheel installed.

Remember to fit the barrel bridge and ratchet wheel back first before you reinstall the third wheel and the sweep-second wheel.

Marti watch

Just before replacing the third wheel and sweep-second wheel.

I refitted the crown wheel, third wheel, and sweep-second wheel and reinstalled the wheel train bridge.

Marti watch

wheel train bridge with endstone fitted.

I turn the movement to install the motion work and the keyless works.

Marti watch

The keyless works installed and the motion works too, except for the hour wheel.

I flip the movement to reinstall the pallets, pallet cock, and the balance.

Marti watch

Finished, recased and ticking happily again.

Marti watch

I refitted the dial and hands. I also installed a new crystal with a steel colored tension ring. Looks and runs very well again. This Marti watch is fit to be enjoyed for years to come.

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