Restoration: Marti Watch with Standard/AS 1686 Movement

 In Watchmaking

I got this watch in a batch and decided to restore it. Marti is a jeweler’s brand from Amsterdam, and the movement is a Standard/ AS 1686 with 17 jewels. The watch had a terrible crystal, a dirty dial, and the movement was dry and full of debris as well. It ran irregularly with a low amplitude.

Marti watch
Marti watch. The damaged crystal and dirty dial are immediately apparent.

Disassembly

As always, I start by removing the balance and the pallets.

Marti watch
The tiny pieces of debris and dust particles are visible.

Then I flip it to the dial side to remove the motion works and the keyless works.

Marti watch
All stripped except for the end stones and the set lever. Interestingly, the 3rd wheel has received an endstone on the baseplate but not on the wheel train bridge.

Flip it back again and start with removing the wheel train bridge.

Marti watch
Here you can see the sweep-second wheel, third wheel, and the escape wheel.

After you’ve removed the sweep-second wheel, third wheel and the escape wheel, the center-wheel cock, and the center-wheel are left.

Marti watch
Center-wheel cock and the center-wheel left.

After this step, I remove the center-wheel cock, but I can’t immediately remove the center-wheel. To be able to do this, first, the ratchet wheel has to be removed.

Marti watch
You can see that the center-wheel runs underneath the ratchet wheel.

I removed the ratchet wheel and the crown wheel. Then I lifted the barrel bridge, the center-wheel, and finally the main barrel. I use a peg wood to pre-clean everything before I clean everything in the watch cleaning machine. Take extra care in cleaning the bearing jewels and the pallets.

Assembly

As always, I begin with the main barrel and then the wheel train. Before the wheels are replaced, I have to fit the end stones on the dial side again. I lubricate them with a tiny bit of Moebius 9010. The center-wheel first, then the center-wheel cock and the escape wheel. The other two wheels follow.

Marti watch
Main barrel, center-wheel, and center-wheel cock and escape wheel installed.

Remember to fit the barrel bridge and ratchet wheel back first before you reinstall the third wheel and the sweep-second wheel.

Marti watch
Just before replacing the third wheel and sweep-second wheel.

I refitted the crown wheel, third wheel, and sweep-second wheel and reinstalled the wheel train bridge.

Marti watch
Wheel train bridge with endstone fitted.

I turn the movement to install the motion work and the keyless works.

Marti watch
The keyless works installed and the motion works too, except for the hour wheel.

I flip the movement to reinstall the pallets, pallet cock, and the balance.

Marti watch
Finished, recased, and ticking happily again.
Marti watch
I refitted the dial and hands. I also installed a new crystal with a steel-colored tension ring. This Marti watch can be enjoyed for years to come.

What do you think of this Marti watch? Let me know in the comments below.

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Showing 2 comments
  • Marco
    Reply

    Wow, beautiful work!!! How well do these As movements compare to other similar 17-jewel ETA movements?

    • Melvin Hollenberg
      Reply

      Hi, thanks. ETA and AS are excellent generic Swiss movements. Both can be regulated to run very accurately.

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