The majority of the vintage watch collectors like their watches as original as possible. I’m one of those people. But sometimes I like to make an exception. For example, when someone else tried to relume the hands already and failed (miserably). Or when there is almost no original lume left. Read about one of those exceptions here.
In those cases, I do like to relume the watch hands. That’s a personal preference, though. Of course, I always discuss the possibilities with the owner if the watch isn’t mine.
This article is for those who agree with me that sometimes reluming is the lesser of two evils.
Which luminous compound?
Luminous compound is available in 2 kinds. Pre-mixed and in kits where you’ll have to mix the powder with a varnish and a thinner.
I like to use the pre-mixed kind. For me, it’s exactly the right thickness and color.
With a kit, you’re more flexible. You’ll be able to mix the luminous compound in the exact color and consistency that you want.
It’s available in different colors. I always buy a naturel or classic white color. Make sure that the lume that you buy isn’t “dentist white” because that’s too bright.
I like to mix a color that matches best with the dial. If there is any lume on the dial you should try to recreate that color and relume the hands in that color as well. I’ve mixed luminous compound with pigment powders, model kit paint and even nail polish.
What do you need?
- Tray with dust cover
- Fiberglass brush
- Painter’s tape
- Mixing bowl
- Old oiler
- Luminous compound
Remove the old luminous compound (if there’s any left). You could do that with a toothpick or with a blunt needle. When you’ve cleared most of it use the fiberglass brush to remove all. It might be obvious but you need to clean the hands upside down. This way you don’t damage the sides that face you when you wear the watch.
Older watches have radium lume on the dial and/or in the hands. Radium is radioactive and thus dangerous to handle. Sometime during the 60s, all watch manufacturers switched to other materials like tritium. Tritium is also radioactive but its radiation doesn’t penetrate the skin.
Be careful if you have an older watch with the original luminous compound. Only work in a well-ventilated room. Wear rubber gloves and a face mask. Afterward, wipe the area where you’ve been working down with a wet cloth.
Mix the new luminous compound. You can do this in a small ceramic bowl or something similar. Use a toothpick to mix the luminous to the desired color and thickness.
Be careful to avoid little bubbles. These will disappear after you’ve relumed the hands. This will cause lighter spots or holes in the lume. Mix slowly and you’ll most likely avoid those bubbles.
Fit the hands on 2 rolls of the painter’s tape. Relume the hands from the back as well using the old oiler. The capillary function will cause the hole in the hand to fill with lume and stick together without dripping.
I like to apply 3 separate layers with some time to dry in between. Don’t take it too far because too much lume will cause the hands to touch. The minute hand will catch on the hour hand or a subdial hand will catch on the hour hand.
Both events will stop the watch from running so it’s important to avoid using too much lume.
Place the hands in some parts tray and use the dust cover. That way dust doesn’t accumulate and stick to the lume while it’s drying.
Leave the hands to dry overnight so you can safely refit the hands the next day.
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