The biggest advantage of acrylic crystals is that you can easily polish away scratches to make the crystal look like new again.
But if the crystal is cracked or chipped, there’s no other solution than to fit a new crystal.
Tension ring crystals are very common, especially in vintage watches. They’re also called armored watch crystals.
With this guide, you’ll learn how to easily fit a tension ring watch crystal with a crystal press.
Click here to learn how to fit a regular acrylic crystal with a crystal lift.
The tools you’ll need
- Watch case cushion
- Watchmaker’s hammer
- Soft brush
- Digital vernier caliper
- Dust blower
- Crystal press
- Cloth or a piece of plastic
- New crystal
Remove the old crystal
Remove the movement with the dial and hands and store it somewhere safe and away from dust.
Use your thumbs to remove the crystal from the inside.
If that doesn’t work because it’s such a tight fit you can place the watch case with the crystal upside down on a watch case cushion.
Take your watchmaker’s hammer and use it to give a sharp tap on the inside of the crystal. Repeat if you have to.
Clean the inside of the bezel
This is the perfect time to clean the inside of the bezel to create the best fit possible for the new crystal.
Over time, dust and dirt build up between the crystal and the bezel. Use a soft brush and a dust blower to clean it.
Be careful not to damage the dial or the hands.
Measure the inside of the bezel
Use the vernier caliper to measure the inside of the watch bezel (make sure not to damage the dial).
Round off the measurement to the nearest even number. With an armored crystal, you don’t add another 0.2 mm.
Let’s say you measure 31.16 mm. This is rounded off to 31.2 mm.
The crystal that you need to use is 31.2.
I always order one size larger as well, just in case. This may come in handy, especially when the initial measurements are between two sizes.
Fit the new crystal
- Start with selecting the lower die for your crystal press.
Use one of the straight-walled dies and pick the one that is as large as possible without touching the lugs, otherwise, you can bend or break them.
You can also use the universal lower die if you have one.
- Next, select the upper die that will be used to fit the new crystal.
Use a die with angled walls. An armored crystal is beveled so the walls of the die need to follow the contours of the crystal.
Select the die which fits the crystal and touches the beveled edge of the crystal with the angled walls.
- Use the dust blower to remove all dust from the inside of the crystal and the dial. You don’t want to discover any dust after you’ve successfully fitted a new crystal.
- Use a piece of plastic or a cloth to cover the lower die and place the watch case on it with the case back down. You could place some plastic or a cloth on the crystal as well so you don’t scratch it. This is especially useful if your crystal press uses aluminum dies.
- Bring down the upper die and see if everything is positioned correctly. If so, begin to apply pressure until you feel or hear the crystal click into place. This usually doesn’t take long.
- Check if the crystal is fitted correctly all the way around.
Test the new crystal. You should fit one size larger if the crystal is too loose.
If everything checks out…job well done!
Use a cloth to remove any fingerprints and enjoy wearing your amazing watch.
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