Restoration: Indus De Luxe

 In Watchmaking

I received this Indus De Luxe in a batch and I decided to restore it. It’s a front loader, that means that the bezel and crystal have to be removed to be able to lift the movement and dial out from the front. The movement is an ETA 2391 with a mobile stud and 17 jewels. I’d estimate this Indus to be a 60s watch.

Indus de luxe

Indus De Luxe. It’s in a rough shape as you can see

Indus de luxe

ETA 2391 with 17 jewels

Disassembly

I start by removing the power from the mainspring by moving and holding the click away from the ratchet wheel whilst letting the crown slip between the thumb and index finger. Then I remove the balance and the pallets. This is to avoid any damage caused when handling the wheel train later.

I flip the movement over to the dial side to start with the motion work. This model has a cannon pinion with a driving wheel that drives the 3rd wheel.

Indus de luxe

Dial side of the ETA 2391. You can see the cannon pinion with the driving wheel attached

After the motion work and the keyless works have been disassembled I flip back to the other side again. I begin with lifting the ratchet wheel and crown wheel with the little shim. Don’t forget the click and click spring. After that, the barrel bridge can be removed.

Indus de luxe

Just before removing the barrel bridge

Then, I lift the train wheel bridge to expose the train wheel. I find it useful to always take a picture of the train wheel, even if I’m not going to write an article. This way you can easily check how the wheels are supposed to interconnect. Even now I don’t really need it anymore, I still like to take a picture as back up.

Indus de luxe

Train wheel and the barrel

After I lift all the wheels and the barrel, all the parts are cleaned in the watch cleaning machine. The mainspring had a broken bridle so I fitted a new one after I cleaned all the parts.

Assembly

As always, I start with the train wheel. Remember to fit the intermediate wheel before you replace the barrel.

Indus de luxe

As you can see, the intermediate wheel is under the barrel

Then I refitted all the wheels and the train wheel bridge. Remember to take care when you are installing the train wheel bridge. Then I start with the barrel bridge and the click with the click spring.

Indus de luxe

Just before installing the ratchet wheel and crown wheel

I then replace the shim and crown wheel and the ratchet wheel. After that, I continue with the dial side. The post for the setting wheel, return bar, and the cannon pinion receive a tiny amount of Moebius 9501. I also use 9501 to lubricate the stem, clutch wheel, and winding pinion in the keyless works. After that, I flip the movement again to replace the pallets and the balance.

Then, I flip the movement again to reassemble the pallets and the balance.

Indus de luxe

Pallets and balance replaced

After that, it’s just a case of fitting the hour wheel and the dial and then re-case the movement. It keeps very accurate time again with a powerful amplitude (+4 sec per day with an amplitude of 320 degrees).

Indus de luxe

The lacquer in the minute hand is slightly damaged. Other than that I think this Indus De Luxe is in a stunning condition again

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