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Service: Buren Grand Prix cal. 410

I’ve had this Buren Grand Prix for a while. I think I bought it at an auction once to service and wear it.

It has a Buren 410 movement.

I like the weathered dial and the blued hands are a nice touch as well. Although I don’t often wear it, I decided to service it anyway.

Buren is one of those brands that are still under the radar and undervalued.

I’m sure that will end when people realize that they made quality watches with in-house movements. They mostly created dress watches with the occasional diver and chronograph. They were also one of the 12 manufacturers of the “Dirty Dozen“.

Of course, Buren will always be most famous for the Micro-rotor movement they created.

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Interview with Justin Vrakas of Watchsteez

Back with a brand new interview on WahaWatches.

It’s my pleasure to introduce Justin Vrakas. Justin is the founder & owner of Watchsteez and he is also a member of the National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors.

Watchsteez is an online shop focusing on chronographs and tool watches. Recently, he started collaborating with Analog/Shift.

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Service: Roamer Cushion MST 264

This Roamer cushion model was in need of a service. It did run for a little while but it almost immediately stopped again.

The owner sprayed it with WD40. I already scolded him and he did apologize for this horrendous act 😉

Seriously, that is not a good idea. WD40 attracts dirt and dust, it clogs bearing jewels and it makes the windings of the hairspring stick together. Sticking hairspring windings will cause the watch to run erratically and much too fast, like severe magnetism.

The movement is an MST 264. This is one of the bigger movements with 12 ligne.

Looking at the (lack of) shock protection, this is an earlier model. Circa late 1920s or early 1930s.

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Do Microbrands Deserve Their Popularity?

Recently, the so-called microbrands are getting quite a lot of attention. Why are there so many of them? What makes them so popular? What are the pros and cons?

Let’s try to answer these questions one by one.

It’s only for the last few years, that microbrands gained the attention of watch collectors and the media. The phenomenon can be most easily traced to the rise of platforms such as Kickstarter (founded in 2009), which have consistently gained popularity since the early 2010s.

Generally, crowdfunding seems to be the remedy for the basic problem of every new watch entrepreneur- the budget. Even when you’re starting the watch company in a garage or a shed, as so many manufacturers and inventors of all sorts did (think of Apple, Rolls-Royce…), there is a problem.

Not only do you need that shed, but also the tools and materials.

Preferably, also some employees, unless you firmly believe, that you can handle producing enough watches yourself in order to avoid the down payment blues, and at the same time not work yourself to death.

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Is it Really Possible to Over-wind Your Watch?

There are 2 situations where the term over-winding might be used:

1. Over-wind a watch so you force and break the watch (most likely the mainspring)

2. The watch is fully wound but it doesn’t run. It’s impossible to wind it any further so it must be over-wound.

1. Break a watch by winding it too far

Hand wound

The mainspring in a manual wound watch is secured on both ends. One end is secured to the barrel arbor and the other end is secured to the barrel. The mainspring has a hook or an extensions spring, that locks in a groove in the barrel wall. This hook or extension spring is also called the bridle.

When you wind a manual watch you’ll slowly start to feel the mainspring building up resistance. It’s best to slow down when you start to feel resistance and gently continue to wind until you can’t wind it any further.

Some hand wound watches do have some sort of protection against over-winding.

Rolex, for example, uses a system in some of their watches that uses 3 bigger notches inside the barrel wall. The spring clings to one of those notches until the pressure gets too high. Then it will simply “jump” to the next notch and so on.

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