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Service: Buren Grand Prix

Buren is (still) one of those underrated brands.

  • Buren was a respectable Swiss brand that used in-house movements.
  • They were 1 of the manufacturers of the “Dirty Dozen“.
  • They invented the micro-rotor.

But somehow, the watches don’t receive much appreciation. Perhaps that will change in the future when people start looking for interesting brands to collect when others have moved out of reach.

This is a Buren Grand Prix with a Buren 1420 movement.

It needed a cleaning and fresh lubrication and the hour hand had lost all the lume, as you can see.

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Is a Chinese $20 Watch Any Good?

I came across this cheap watch at a collector’s fair. It’s an unbranded Flieger-style watch. Though it’s clearly not Haute Horlogerie, I liked the design and the appearance.

The watch was obviously mechanical because I heard the keyless works rattle turning the crown anti-clockwise. It didn’t run though and after a quick inspection, I saw that the minute hand was stuck on the subsecond. The seller let me have it for a song so I’d just bought another timepiece.

I suspected it was a Chinese movement so I thought it would be interesting to show you what you get when you buy a watch like this from eBay or a similar website.

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Service: Girard-Perregaux Dress Watch

This is a tonneau- shaped 1980s Girard-Perregaux dress watch. The movement is a Peseux 7040. Though this particular watch doesn’t have seconds it’s also available with sub seconds.

This caliber is often used in smaller flat dress watches because it’s a graceful and sleek movement. It’s beautifully finished in comparison to similar movements in other watches. Look at the Geneva stripes and the gold-coloured engravings on the wheel-train bridge.

The watch had a low amplitude and a short power reserve. It also suddenly stopped several times.

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Service: Regalis AS 1220/1221

This is a Regalis dress watch with an AS 1220/1221 movement. The one thing that immediately jumps out if you look at the movement is the triangular hole in the wheel train bridge. This can be used to inspect or lubricate the bearing jewel of one of the transmission wheels. But if that’s necessary than it probably needs a service anyway and you’ll have to remove the bridge altogether. Or they might have just put it there as decoration.

I’m not a 100% sure which type of shock protection this is but it looks like Monorex or Simrex.

The watch is 31 mm in diameter, so it’s rather small for today’s standards. It’s even a little small for the time period (the late 40s / early 50s) it’s from. Some people would qualify it as a boy’s watch.

It looks like Regalis was a part of Nivada.

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Service: Longines Advocate 9LT (25.17ABC)

This is a wonderful Longines Advocate watch. It’s in a very good condition apart from a scratch on the dial. It looks like somebody slipped while trying to lift the hands. It’s a real shame but it happens, though I wouldn’t want it to happen with any of my watches. Or even worse, on a watch I’m working on that isn’t mine.

The serial number dates this watch to 1953. If you’d like to date your own Longines, you can try this Longines Year Identifier.

The movement is the Longines 9LT. It’s a movement with an indirect subsecond. I’ll come back to what that means later. This particular one is a 25.17ABC with a monometallic balance. There’s not much to find about this movement, except for the standard info.

This Longines Art Deco needed a service. The power reserve was way down from what it used to be and it sometimes suddenly stopped.

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