You’ve found an interesting vintage Omega watch. Perhaps on Ebay or another auction site or even at a yard sale. How to check the authenticity of an Omega watch? Or in other words: how to spot a fake Omega?
This is an article about vintage Omega watches in general and the steps to take to authenticate them. If you’re interested in specific models I recommend DetectaFake. They have an excellent article about Speedmasters and Seamaster dive-watches.
How to Spot a Fake Omega with these 5 Steps
- Dial and hands
- Reference number/case number
- Serial number
I’ve added some final tips at the conclusion.
#1: Dial and hands
First, look closely at the dial and hands. Omega is a respectable brand and they had standards to live up to. The lacquer, the font, the text/printing, minute track etc. should all be of a consistently high quality. The alignment should be perfect and there should be no misspellings of any kind. That includes the case and the case back as well.
The lume on the dial and in the hands (if any) should be uniform in color. If the colors don’t match, the dial or the hands most likely have been re-lumed in the past.
Also, keep in mind that lume will discolor over time. A watch that is 40, 50 years old or even older will show some minor signs of age at least and that’s fine. When the lume in the hands or on the dial is still extremely bright, that’s suspicious. It doesn’t immediately mean there is something wrong, but you should at least investigate further.
Even if they did re-lume the dial or hands, it doesn’t make it a fake piece. It does mean, however, that it’s not 100% original anymore. You can read more about redials and how to detect them here.
The hands should be the correct type of hands that Omega would have used. Below you see a chart of hands that Omega would have used. More on the correct type of hands later.
#2: Reference number/case number
Omega uses these numbers to distinguish between models and types. The number is stamped on the inside of the case back. This number may be used to look up the watch in question to compare the dial and the hands with the one you’re looking at.
Several books use these codes to list watches but the most common resource is the Omega Vintage Database. Not all entries have pictures but the database has lots of images to compare dials and hands. It also states what movements have been used and what the production timeframe was.
Be aware that the database isn’t always 100% accurate. It doesn’t include all reference numbers. However, it’s a very good resource and should be the starting point of a search for a particular vintage Omega watch.
The Vintage Omega Database sometimes uses an extra 0 after the decimal point. For example, the 136.041 above is listed as 136.0041 in the Vintage Omega Database.
If possible, try to determine what movement the watch has. Certain models only used certain movements and movements were only used for a certain amount of time.
The Vintage Omega Database will list the movement or movements used for a certain reference number as well. When the caliber matches the one that the database has listed, you can check another item of your list.
The caliber designation is often visible on the movement itself. If it’s not clear you can always try to find the movement in Ranfft.
#4: Serial number
All Omega movements have a serial number. On most movements, you can find it on the barrel bridge or train wheel bridge. The serial number can be used to determine (with an accuracy of 1-2 years) when a movement has been manufactured. This should match with the period in which Omega produced a certain model.
It’s entirely possible that there is a small gap in years between the movement and the watch. Sometimes the movement had been in stock somewhere for a while before being fitted into a watch. However, that shouldn’t be more than 1 or 2 years.
Omega started to sign all the crowns around 1950. Some say it’s from 1945 onward and others say it’s sometime between 1947 and 1950.
So, if you have a vintage Omega timepiece that was produced later than 1950 the crown should be signed.
The presence of a signed crown is no definite proof, though. There are dozens of different types of originally signed Omega crowns. Theoretically, someone could fit a signed Omega crown to a watch that’s supposed to have a different crown. It’s an original crown but the watch is not the same as how Omega produced them.
Also, perhaps the stem and / or the crown needed to be changed and they couldn’t be bothered to use the correct parts. The watch might be perfectly original but it has a generic crown or an original crown of the wrong type.
In other words, you should examine the crown but it’s not crucial proof one way or another. If it does correspond with the other info you’ve collected so far it’s another check mark on the list.
Omega is an interesting brand with many interesting models. That does mean, however, that it’s one of the brands that are most faked and tampered with. Be careful!
If you checked all the items above and you’re still not sure you could always ask some questions on one of the forums. Members are usually very knowledgeable on how to spot a fake Omega and are willing to help.
Remember that prices way below market value are suspicious. There are still people who have no clue what they have but in the age of smartphones and Google, they are getting rarer every day. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
Whenever you’re looking to buy on the internet you need to buy the seller and then the timepiece. If the description, pictures or his/her reputation raises your eyebrows, skip that one.
Sometimes it just doesn’t feel right and it’s a good idea to trust your gut in these moments. There will be plenty more along the way.
Do you have more tips or tricks on how to spot a fake Omega? Please comment below so that I can add them to the article.