I came across this cheap watch at a collector’s fair. It’s an unbranded Flieger-style watch. Though it’s clearly not Haute Horlogerie, I liked the design and the appearance.
The watch was obviously mechanical because I heard the keyless works rattle turning the crown anti-clockwise. It didn’t run though and after a quick inspection, I saw that the minute hand was stuck on the subsecond. The seller let me have it for a song so I’d just bought another timepiece.
I suspected it was a Chinese movement so I thought it would be interesting to show you what you get when you buy a watch like this from eBay or a similar website.
This is a Regalis dress watch with an AS 1220/1221 movement. The one thing that immediately jumps out if you look at the movement is the triangular hole in the wheel train bridge. This can be used to inspect or lubricate the bearing jewel of one of the transmission wheels. But if that’s necessary than it probably needs a service anyway and you’ll have to remove the bridge altogether. Or they might have just put it there as decoration.
I’m not a 100% sure which type of shock protection this is but it looks like Monorex or Simrex.
The watch is 31 mm in diameter, so it’s rather small for today’s standards. It’s even a little small for the time period (the late 40s / early 50s) it’s from. Some people would qualify it as a boy’s watch.
It looks like Regalis was a part of Nivada.
This is a wonderful Longines Advocate watch. It’s in a very good condition apart from a scratch on the dial. It looks like somebody slipped while trying to lift the hands. It’s a real shame but it happens, though I wouldn’t want it to happen with any of my watches. Or even worse, on a watch I’m working on that isn’t mine.
The serial number dates this watch to 1953. If you’d like to date your own Longines, you can try this Longines Year Identifier.
The movement is the Longines 9LT. It’s a movement with an indirect subsecond. I’ll come back to what that means later. This particular one is a 25.17ABC with a monometallic balance. There’s not much to find about this movement, except for the standard info.
This Longines Art Deco needed a service. The power reserve was way down from what it used to be and it sometimes suddenly stopped.
A stunning Roamer dress watch with an MST 372 movement. The case number is 107 372. The chapter ring on this particular watch is part of the case.
The MST 372 has a direct sweep second, 17 jewels and it has a Super-Shock-Resist (SSR) shock protection. Both the jewel count and the Super-Shock are mentioned on the dial.
From all the MST movements, the 372 had one of the longest production runs, if not the longest. Because it has a Super-Shock-Resist it can be dated between 1945 and 1950.
The amplitude is quite low and the rate is irregular. The movement looks to be slightly overoiled in the past. The lubrication looks dirty and hardened as well. The latest service date inscribed into the case back is from ’74.
This is a very special watch to me. It’s my late grandfather’s watch and it’s the watch that started my love for vintage watches. A Moritz Ancre with a Lorsa 238A movement. It doesn’t have a French shock protection system as usual. Instead, it has an Incabloc.
It was his daily beater and since he was a roadworker it took a lot of beatings. After I inherited the watch, I wanted to have it restored to its former glory to wear it. Many watchmakers advised against it since the costs would far exceed the value. That really got me into watchmaking and restoring timepieces.
I started to restore it myself and later I found a watchmaker who was happy to service the movement for me. He did a great job and I’ve been wearing it with pleasure for years.
It’s due for a regular service, so here we go.