This is a nice Roamer dress watch with an MST 372 movement. This movement was produced with several types of shock protection systems. This one has Shock-Resist and that places the watch in the mid to late 1940s.
It has a US import code on the balance cock; FXU. That means that this watch was imported to the USA from Switzerland and was therefore intended for the US market.
FXU has Roamer and Meyer & Stüdeli listed so the movement is correct (at least the balance cock is).
The movement ran very erratically and setting the time was rough.
When I removed the hands, I found out why the Timegrapher showed me a snowstorm on the screen. The hour hand and the minute hand actually stuck together because of severe magnetism.
I used my Elma Antimag to demagnetize the hands and I demagnetized the trays with parts before I put them in the watch cleaning machine.
Sooner or later you’ll come across a watch that has a broken watch stem because it’s one of those parts that often break.
Or perhaps you want to replace a worn crown or upgrade it for an original crown and the length of the old stem isn’t right.
With this guide, you can easily replace the winding stem yourself.
Before you begin
If you don’t have a healthy stock of spare stems, you’ll need to order a new one.
To be able to do so, you need to identify the movement.
If you know what movement it is, you can buy a new stem on Cousins UK or Windingstems.com.
You can also use a Ronda catalogue to order a new stem. If you don’t know the brand and caliber, you can even use the Ronda catalogue to identify the stem with the dimensions of the square part and other dimensions.
Liban is not that well known but this is probably the fourth I repaired. All of them were Art Deco style watches or smaller dress watches.
This one did run but only intermittently. The movement is the AS 1200.
The winding stem was also too short so the crown couldn’t be pushed back in enough.
As a result, the watch was always in the time setting mode unless you pushed the crown and turned it at the same time.
The movement is heavily tarnished and discoloured. I don’t know what would’ve caused this. It’s mainly focussed around pivot holes, bearing jewels and around the edge of the plate.
Perhaps someone cleaned it with the wrong kind of cleaning solution.
I’ve had this Buren Grand Prix for a while. I think I bought it at an auction once to service and wear it.
It has a Buren 410 movement.
I like the weathered dial and the blued hands are a nice touch as well. Although I don’t often wear it, I decided to service it anyway.
Buren is one of those brands that are still under the radar and undervalued.
I’m sure that will end when people realize that they made quality watches with in-house movements. They mostly created dress watches with the occasional diver and chronograph. They were also one of the 12 manufacturers of the “Dirty Dozen“.
Of course, Buren will always be most famous for the Micro-rotor movement they created.
Back with a brand new interview on WahaWatches.
It’s my pleasure to introduce Justin Vrakas. Justin is the founder & owner of Watchsteez and he is also a member of the National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors.
Watchsteez is an online shop focusing on chronographs and tool watches. Recently, he started collaborating with Analog/Shift.